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Celsi fires have now been released in the UK, with great reviews all over, the new technology is virtually a computer pretening to be a fire, with clean looks and great prices they are bound to be a hit.More…


Showing posts with label flue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label flue. Show all posts

Sunday, 15 January 2012

Opening Up Your Fireplace

So you've just moving into a new house or flat and notice there is a chimney breast in your living room but no fireplace! No living room can be complete without a fireplace, both as a focal point and as a compliment to other heating the room, allowing you to turn down the central heating and just enjoy the warmth that a gas, solid fuel or electric fire offers.
Where Do I Start?
To start you'll need to find out if your chimney breast has a fireplace opening. Tap where you thing the fireplace is, or if there is an air-brick, remove it. This will help determine what has been used to block up the opening, whether plasterboard, MDF, timber or block-work.
If you're a competent handy-person you may be able to try and remove the material blocking the opening, but if you find a broken lintel, or no lintel at all, STOP IMMEDIATELY and call in a building professional.
Now I've Made My Opening, Is My Chimney Usable?
Whether the chimney is usable rests entirely on your chimney or flue has a pull, or up- draught, without this there would be no way of drawing the harmful exhaust gases out of the room. (To get an  idea of what flue you have click here)

Most gas fitters, or solid fuel engineers will test the pull of a chimney by using a smoke pellet or match, but you can test this yourself. Try lighting a match, blowing it out near the entrance to the flue, see if the smoke trail is sucked up the chimney.
Ideally you should see the smoke trail be sucked up the chimney, indicating a good pull by the flue. If not, this may be because the flue has been partially or completely blocked, or even removed! Check rooms above or in the loft, the chimney breast should go through those rooms too, a missing chimney breast would need to be rebuilt to re-instate the flue before you could use a conventionally flued appliance.
Although it does not stop you using a catalytic flueless gas fire or a bio-ethanol fire. Another issue may be that the chimney has been capped, head outside (weather permitting) and look up at the chimney, binoculars may be helpful, to see if there is a metal cap on the chimney pots. This cap would need to be removed and providing that the rest of flue is intact then removal of the cap will re-instate the pull of the flue, allowing the freedom to have fires such as the stunning Drugasar Eclipse suite (shown right).
I've done all of the above, but my chimney still has no pull, I think it's blocked.
The best thing to do would be to consult a chimney sweep and see if they can sweep the chimney and clear any blockage. If you're looking to install a wood or solid fuel appliance then most manufacturers recommend having the chimney swept every 6 months, with many stove manufacturers advising that a flue liner be fitted to ensure the flue has a uniform pull.
I've Decided What Fire I Want, Can I Fit It Myself?
No, Simple As That. Gas fires must be fitted by an installer registered with Gas Safe, likewise any solid fuel appliance must be fitted by a HETAS registered engineer. Both of these are legal requirements and doing it yourself may make it very difficult to sell the property, or worse, could seriously endanger your life.

Wednesday, 28 December 2011

When Santa Got Stuck Up The Chimney


When Santa got stuck up the Chimney
He began to shout
You girls and boys won’t get any toys until you get me out
My hair is black, there’s soot in my sack
Any my nose is tickly too
When Santa got stuck up the Chimney
Achoo, Achoo, Achoo!!



With today’s modern pre-fabricated chimney and flue systems, there is certainly plenty of scope for Santa getting stuck up the chimney,  With internal diameters ranging from 150mm – ideal for the typical woodburning stove, up to only 200 to 250mm for other more open appliances, Santa would not have to have eaten too many mince pies to get stuck!!

Why are modern flues so slim?  Well, they give the perfect diameter for the heating appliance to work.  They make use of modern materials and technology.  The modern pre-fabricated flue system allows the householder to have a versatile and flexible solution to created a wonderful and warming focal point within a room.

Traditional methods of building chimneys (and chimneys have been with us since Roman times!) are inefficient, require foundations and are very labour intensive.  Pre-fabricated flue systems are quick to install, the space required is minimal, allowing the building to maximise its living space.

Pre-fabricated chimney systems have been rigorously tested under European legislation gaining CE approvals along with HETAS approvals (the UK’s leading body in Solid Fuel awareness).



So what do you to say in answer to the question “how can Santa get down our chimney?”  You can of course pass it off as magic.  Just as reindeers fly through the sky, and Santa manages to deliver presents all around the world in a single night, the magic of Christmas asks us to suspend disbelief.

Or you could do what an enterprising six year old boy called Leo did.  When his family purchased a new house Leo was worried that the chimney would not be big enough to to accommodate both a large Father Christmas, and a large sack of toys.  Leo wrote a letter to the builder which said “I am worried that my mummy’s house doesn’t have a big enough chimney.  I think Santa will get stuck.  Please can you help.”

The builder responded by commissioning an architect and a mathematician to design the perfect Santa-friendly chimney, on the Lower Mill Estate near Cirencester in Gloucestershire.

A crane lifted a large Father Christmas up to the roof and lowered him into the Cotswold stone chimney which goes all the way down to the sitting room.  “A perfect fit” announced Santa. “I wish they were all like this!”

Thursday, 8 December 2011

Choosing A Stove - The Guide


As this is a fairly expensive exercise it really does makes sense to get it right first time. Think long term!

Common sense, planning, using quality products and seeking professional advice are paramount to your success when buying and installing a stove. Using solid fuel requires a little effort but the joy of owning a stove during those cold winter months is unbeatable.

A little reading is required, a little legwork, some research and some comparisons will help you make a few key decisions. These actions will help ensure a successful and safe installation and you will have many years of enjoyment and pleasure from your stove.


Stove guide - Building Regulations

Stove installation is covered by building regulations “Document J” Hetas – Heating Equipment Testing and Approval Service. Hetas registered installers are trained to adhere to these building regulations. 


Safety First! - Hetas Certified Engineers

We strongly recommend that you employ the services of a qualified / certified Hetas engineer. Please do not compromise your safety, the safety of your property or your loved ones and neighbours by performing an installation yourself. 

A badly installed stove can lead to an explosion, a fire or a build up of poisonous gasses and any of these events can lead to a loss of life or critical injury.


Stove guide - Important First Things To Consider

Purchasing stoves over the internet can be fraught with danger if you do not do your research before pressing the buy button.
Remember all stove installations are subject to building regulations and come under the control of your local authority. When you buy from a reputable stove retailer you will get the complete package: advice, guarantee and the right stove, if you've done your research! 
Before purchasing a stove, check with your local authority if you are in a smoke control area.  

You should not burn wood or bituminous coal in a smoke control zone unless the stove has been granted Exemption from the Clean Air act by DEFRA, find some DEFRA approved stoves here. You should be familiar too with the Clean Air Act .

Always follow the advice of your stove manufacturer regarding fuels suitable for your appliance. A good stove retailer will be able to advise on how to get the best results when burning these fuels. Remember you will invalidate your appliance guarantee if you burn a fuel that is not recommended by the stove manufacturer.


Stove guide - Chimney Flue – (the engine behind your stove)

All wood burning or multi fuel stoves require a class 1 chimney flue.  As the majority of stoves are more than 78% efficient it is imperative that the chimney flue is better than adequate. 

The chimney flue is what drives the appliance and the more efficient the stove is, the more efficient the flue system has to be in order to exhaust the combustion gasses quickly into atmosphere. 

Wherever possible the stove should be flued from the top of the appliance into the chimney and not from the back. Flue gasses naturally want to rise in a vertical fashion and encountering bends of more than 30 degrees to the vertical will slow and cool the evacuation of these gasses down,  resulting in possible condensation / deposit problems in the chimney flue. If bends are needed then they must be rounded and not sharp.


Flue Liners

It is common for most stove installations to be recommended a double skin, flexible, stainless steel flue liner. 

These come in 2 grades:
316 - with a guarantee of 10 years.
904 - with a guarantee of 20/25 years.

When either system is installed, I would strongly advise that they be insulated with either Vermiculite, Pearlite, Leca or a non combustible wrap in order to maintain the flue gas temperature. It is imperative that a flue liner is fitted to be both water-tight and insulated correctly.

As the guarantee implies, these lining systems are not permanent. If the stove is oversize or not operated efficiently or the liner is not installed correctly, then the life of these liners can be much less than the period of the guarantee. This can often lead to tension between the installer and you the householder as to what is the cause of the failure. 

A more permanent cure for an oversize or inefficient chimney flue is a “cast in situ” system provided by “Shellcast” or “Cico”. Although this may cost a couple of hundred pounds more to install, you will get a more permanent and durable system that will give many years of service.

Be aware that before any lining system is installed you must ensure that the existing chimney flue should be swept clean and pressure tested for air tightness.

Top Tip - For maximum safety chimney flues should be swept twice a year by a competent person registered to the National Association of Chimney Sweeps – NACS - or the Guild of Master Sweeps or be Hetas approved.


National Association of Chimney Sweeps HETAS  Guild of Master Sweeps

Home Is Where The Hearth Is

3. Your Hetas engineer will advise on hearth construction and ventilation requirements as again both are covered by building regulations. As all combustion processes require a supply of oxygen then there is an ongoing need to replenish any oxygen that is used in the process. Stoves with an output of more than 5kw require an additional supply of air from an external source.


The Silent Killer

Carbon monoxide is a product of incomplete combustion and is formed when there is a lack of adequate ventilation or if there is a blockage or restriction in the chimney flue. Carbon monoxide is a gas that kills, so for safety reasons, prior to using the appliance a battery operated carbon monoxide detector should be installed in the room.


Kilowatt Capacity

4. The kilowatt output of the stove should be very closely matched to the kilowatt requirement of the space you are wanting to heat.  For example a standard room of 15ft length by 14 ft wide by 7ft high only needs a stove with an output of 3 kilowatts.  

Installing an oversize stove will result in possible low firebox temperatures which in turn will lead to condensates and deposits forming in the flue system. These, are highly corrosive and can lead to failure of stainless steel flue systems. 




Burning Real WoodThere is a basic difference between a wood burning and a multi fuel stove, and it's all to give the favoured fuel optimum burning conditions. Wood burns best on a bed of ash, whereas solid fuel needs a grate capable of supplying primary / combustion air. If you want to burn a combination of both wood and solid fuel then this can only be done on a multi-fuel stove.

Before burning any wood, it must be either seasoned for a minimum period of 18 months or have been kiln dried down to an ideal of less than 20% moisture – the drier the better! 

Burning non seasoned logs (Green Wood) leads to creosote type condensates in the flue system. These will not only block the chimney flue but are also highly flammable and will lead to destructive chimney fires. We strongly recommend that you do not burn non seasoned wood in your stove.

Do not allow the stove to “tick over” for long periods especially if you have installed any type of flexible stainless steel flue liner. 

Before and after any slumbering or overnight burn you should “open up” the stove for an hour to increase the fire box temperature. This will help to create the correct conditions in the chimney flue to allow the combustion gasses to escape into atmosphere and not to condense on the inner surface of the flue. 

The purchase of a magnetic temperature gauge, to fit on the off-take pipe (the pipe that connects the stove to the chimney flue), will alleviate any low temperature problems. This device shows the best operating temperature at a glance.


Smokeless Fuels

All smokeless fuels used should be Hetas approved for use in a closed appliance and most importantly do not burn “neat” or “raw” petroleum coke as this can cause severe damage to the firebox. This fuel has very little ash content and consequently burns at very high temperatures. The ash content of the fuel is there to protect the fire bars, the grate and the firebox of the stove from the very high temperatures generated during the combustion process.


Ventilation

Natural ventilation is a good thing. Avoid using extract fans in the locality of the stove as this leads to a lowering of pressure in the building which can cause the combustion gasses to be drawn “back down” the chimney flu and into the room.


Stove Buying Golden Rules

Maintain sufficient temperature in the firebox to ensure the combustion gasses can escape into the atmosphere.


  • Follow the stove manufacturer’s guidelines and Stove Retailers advice.
  • Purchase a carbon monoxide detector.
  • Building regulations are there to ensure maximum safety – abide by them
  • Use a certified Hetas Engineer
  • Talk to your local authority before spending your hard earned cash

Friday, 18 November 2011

Do I Need A Flue Liner?

If you have a standard masonry chimney and wish to install a woodburning or multifuel stove, it is highly advisable to fit a stainless steel flexible flue liner with the stove.

Corinium Flue Systems recommends fitting a flue liner for the following reasons;

  • Masonry chimneys, particularly in older properties, are likely to have cracks. Without a liner, any fumes from the stove and creosote formed will leak through cracks in the masonry, possibly exiting in other rooms in your house or in your neighbours'.
  • Creosote is a tar like substance that is formed when fumes emitted from the stove cool down as they rise. When these gaseous fumes cool down, any substances contained within the fumes condense and are deposited on the inside of the flue or chimney. A flue liner has a smooth inner skin with less surface area for creosote to be deposited onto, whereas in a masonry chimney it is likely to build up in cracks or crevices. Creosote is highly flammable and is often the cause of chimney fires.
  • A flue liner is much narrower than a chimney and is the same diameter from top to bottom. This continuous, consistent pathway will allow the flue gases to exit the chimney much quicker, with less chance of deposits. A flue liner's narrow, consistent diameter also means that it will warm up much quicker than a chimney. This results in an improved draw, making it easier to get a fire burning without lots of smoke back into the stove. A flue liner will retain the heat longer than a chimney after the fire has died out, which means it will be easier to start a new fire the morning after the night before.
  • A flue liner is generally more straightforward to sweep. Creosote deposits formed will be harder to remove from a large chimney, especially build ups in cracks or crevices.
A question frequently asked is whether the flue should be insulated - this is done by backfilling the chimney around the flue liner. This is not necessary, but can be beneficial if you have a particularly cold chimney i.e. external, very exposed and very large. Normally the warming of the air in the chimney surrounding the liner during burning is sufficient for insulation.

They are also frequently asked whether a flue liner is necessary to comply with building regulations. It does not state in the building regulations that a flue liner has to be fitted with a stove. However, you must be sure that the chimney is in good working condition and has been sufficiently maintained. The majority of installers and retailers will recommend fitting a flue liner; particularly in older properties, as it is safer and more efficient.

We do not advise asking your installer not to fit a flue liner purely on the basis of cost. Once you have made the one off investment, your stove and flue liner, if properly maintained, will last for years. Most stove and flue manufacturers offer a warranty on their products - for example, Corinium offer a ten year warranty on our flue liner, subject to conditions of use.

Saturday, 7 May 2011

Twenty Facts About Chimney Sweeps

Chimneys and chimney sweeps figure in folklore and legend not only in Britain but in many other countries around the world. Chimney sweeps are honoured by festivals and appear in literature. We thought you'd quite enjoy a small insight into some of these legends, festivals and curious customs.

Annual Leave (And A Free Lunch)
Traditionally the May Day holiday (May 1st) was celebrated by chimney sweeps as their annual holiday. Although sadly this tradition slowly began to die out as child labour laws meant young boys were banned from climbing inside chimneys to clean them. But it was revived in Rochester, Kent where the Sweeps' Festival is a very merry occasion. It takes place over a weekend in early May and features morris dancers and a foliage covered character known as 'Jack In The Green' who has been woken from his slumber on Bluebell Hill. The Sweeps' Festival attracts thousands of people every year, dressed as chimney sweeps who walk in procession through the town centre to kick off the festivities.

Royal Decree
Tradition claims that King George II was riding in his carriage one day when his horses bolted. A sweep bravely leapt forward and stopped them. The grateful King was so delighted that he issued a Royal Decree that chimneys sweeps are lucky and should be treated with respect.

Sweeping With A Bang
Extraordinary (and dangerous) methods of chimney sweeping were employed many years ago. Becasue country gentlemen found muzzle-loading guns difficult to unload after a day's shooting they oftern fired them up the chimney to dislodge any built-up soot. This method became immortalised in the "Merry Wives of Windsor" by William Shakespeare himself! A casualty of the practise of firing guns up them was the palace at Dijon, France, which burnt downt in the spring of 1503 when a culverin was fired up it in an attempt to clean it. However the town was not without a palace for long as a splendid new one was soon built.

Bringing Good & Bad Luck
Probably the best known traditions regarding chimney sweeps relate to weddings. It is considered lucky to see a chimney sweep on your wedding day and even luckier to see his brush emerging from a chimney, and perhaps the luckiest thing of all is for the bride to be kissed by a sweep.
Chimney's were once swept by various plants such as heather and gorse tied in bunches and fixed to poles, however folklore warned against using holly. It is said that Holly is a "gentle tree" well liked by the fairies who would object to its use in this way and create mischief in the house all year as a punishment.

Italian Style
In September every year a Sweeps' Festival takes place in the village of Santa Maria Maggiore in Italy. It was established in 1983 when 13 chimney sweeps met to chat and walk around the town. Since then it has grown steadily and now sweeps travel from many European countries to attend the festival. There is much merrymaking and feasting and a procession takes place in the town which is now so long it takes nearly an hour to pass by. A Sweeps' museum was opened on the 5th April 2005 following the strong successes of the Sweeps' Festival.

Around The World
As in Britain, chimney sweeps in Poland are considered lucky. But there is a catch... To benefit from the luck of a chimney sweep, upon first seeing the sweep, you must instantly take hold of a button on your shirt or coat to make a wish, to hesitate for a second cancels out the luck. Saint Florian, the patron saint of Poland is alos the patron saint of Chimney sweeps. An Irish tradition states that after a chimney sweep had finished his work, the housewife would brush the soot off the tail of his coat and save it in a container. This should then be placed in the hearth to bring peace and harmony to the house.
In some European countries house-holders fix old wagon wheels to disused chimneys to encourage storks to nest there. The birds' habit of nesting in high places including chimneys may account for the legend that babies are brought by the stork and delivered down the chimney!